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- Less effort is required to apply the drill to the work piece. The movement of the chuck and spindle is by a lever working on a rack and pinion, which gives the operator considerable mechanical advantage.
- The table allows a vise or clamp to be used to position and restrain the work, making the operation much more secure.
- The angle of the spindle is fixed relative to the table, allowing holes to be drilled accurately and consistently.
Safety
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There is a PPE label on the Drill Press mounted above the power switch, which lists precautions for the operator. Eye protection is standard in the Wood Shop, but other steps listed must also be taken. Specifically: |
All loose clothing must be either removed or pulled back from machine. All long hair must be tied up/pulled back (note: rubber bands are located at safety glasses cabinet by the wood shop entry door). Long strings or necklaces (example is sweatshirt pull strings), and bracelets, should be removed or otherwise contained. The chuck/mandrel of the drill press spins at a very high rate creating wind, this can act like a tornado and pull loose items into it causing a potential hazard. No extraneous materials should be kept on the Drill Press worktable during operations.
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The Arbor is the 3-handled crank located on the right-hand side of the Drill Press, which controls the up and down motion of the spindle and is spring loaded to retract the spindle upward. This feature simply aids in the lifting of the spindle, but it is best to control the upward motion manually, rather than simply letting go of the Arbor. Always maintain contact and control of arbor crank.
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When setting up drilling operations involving clamps and fixtures, the operator needs to set the appropriate Table height to allow the Arbor handles to clear anything mounted to the Table. |
Drilling Bits
We have several different types of Drilling Bits. Three of the most common types are: Twist Drill Bits, Spade Bits and Forstner Bits.
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The Forstner bits are kept in the cabinet below the Bench Top Drill Press, and they are fairly aggressive cutting devices. We have them from ¼” diameter up to 3-1/8”, and the larger they are, the more aggressively they tend to rotate a work piece. It’s therefore very important that the work piece be supported properly when using these bits, especially ones that are over 1/4” in diameter.
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We also have some special circle cutting bits and hole saws that require very specific set-ups, and you will learn about them later, if and when your projects need them. |
Mandrel / Chuck
The drill press mandrel otherwise known as a “Chuck” is where drill bits are installed, and it’s important to capture at least ½” of the drill bits’ Shank mounting area within the Chuck for safety. It is again stressed here, that no less than ½” of the bit should be captured by the Mandrel, and no more than the smooth part of the shank above the cutting flutes. Mounting a Drill bit requires first tightening the Chuck by hand, making sure the Bit is centered within the 3 Jaws of the Chuck. At this point, it’s necessary to further secure the bit in the Chuck, using the Chuck Key, which is stored in the hole on top of the Drill Press. The Chuck Key has a row of teeth around its’ circumference, which mesh with the toothed gear around the Chuck and a protuberance or “post”, that fits into a hole below the toothed gear. Mesh the gears and turn the Chuck Key clockwise to secure the bit, then remove the Chuck Key and put it back where it goes…no where else! Note that the proper amount of torque is all that is necessary it can be over tightened. If you leave the Key in the Chuck, it will become a projectile when you turn on the Drill Press. It will fly out and could hit you or some innocent bystander! Always remove it after bit installation and return it to its proper location.
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