FLSO Router
Description
A Router is a hand tool or power tool that routs (hollows out) an area or “pocket” in hard material, such as wood or plastic. A Router can also be used to create chamfered, coved, beveled, rounded or otherwise, decorative edges on a piece of material. Routers are mainly used in woodworking, especially cabinetry. Usually they're handheld or fastened, with the cutting end up, in router tables.
A router employs a spindle driven by an electric motor, and various cutting bits can be installed in the collet at the end of the spindle. We have four different types of routers in the SOA: A fixed base router, a plunge base version, a smaller lighter version designed specifically for trimming laminates, and a table-mounted version.
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- The set-up includes an electric driven router, a cutting tool, often referred to as a router bit, and occasionally, a guide template. Also the router can be fixed to a table or connected to radial arms, which can be controlled more easily.
- In general there are three types of cutting bits or tools (Router bit types).
- Fluted cutters (used for edging and trimming)
- Profile cutters (used for shaping and trimming)
- Helical cutters (used on easily machined materials, for drilling, shaping, trimming)
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There are two standard types of router—plunge and fixed. When using a plunge-base router, the sole of the base is placed on the face of the work with the cutting bit raised above the work, then the motor is turned on and the cutter is lowered into the work. With a fixed-base router, the cut depth is set before the tool is turned on. The sole plate is then either rested flat on the workpiece overhanging the edge so that the cutting bit is not contacting the work (and then entering the work from the side once the motor is turned on), or the sole plate is placed at an angle with the bit above the work and the bit is "rocked" over into the work once the motor is turned on. In each case, the bit cuts its way in, but the plunge router does it in a more refined way, although the bit used must be shaped so that it bores into the wood when lowered. Plunge-cutting Router Bit.
The baseplate (sole plate) is generally circular (though this, too, varies by individual models) and may be used in conjunction with a fence attached to the base, which then braces the router against the edge of the work, or via a straight-edge clamped across the work to obtain a straight cut. Other means of guiding the machine include the template guide bushing secured in the base around the router cutter, or router cutters with built-in guide bearings. Both of these run against a straight edge or shaped template. Without any type of guide, the varying reaction of the wood against the torque of the tool makes it impossible to control by hand, with the precision normally required.
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To remove the motor unit from the base unit:
1(a) Open the clamp (A) Fig. 1.
1(b) While holding the base, turn the power unit COUNTER-CLOCKWISE until the lower pin (B) Fig. 1
in the motor housing is disengaged from groove in base.
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4. Place one wrench on the flats of the chuck with the opposite end of the wrench resting on the
bench to your left (Fig. 2).
5. Place the other wrench on the collet and tighten COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Tighten firmly.
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can cause injury.
1. Open the clamp (A) Fig. 1 and set the power unit in the base unit.
2. Align the lower pin of the power unit (B) Fig. 1 with the groove in the base.
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The following directions refer to Fig. 3.
1. Open the clamp (A).
2. Hold the base (E) and turn the power unit (F) counter-clockwise until the tip of the bit is above
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To start the tool, move the rocker switch (B) Fig. 18 to the "ON" or "1" position. To stop the tool,
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Always be sure the work is rigidly clamped or otherwise secured before making a cut. When routing the edges, hold the router firmly down and against the work with both guiding knobs. Since the cutter rotates clockwise (when viewing router from top), the router should be moved from left to right as you stand facing the work. When working on the inside of a template, move the router in a clockwise direction. When working on the outside of a template, move the router in a counter- clockwise direction. Avoid “Climb-Cutting” (cutting in direction opposite that shown in Fig. 20). “Climb-Cutting” increases the chance for loss of control resulting in possible injury. When “Climb-Cutting” is required (backing around a corner), exercise extreme caution to maintain control of router. The speed and depth of cut will depend largely on the workpiece. Keep the cutting pressure constant but do not crowd the router so the motor speed slows excessively.
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